编辑文:
First time to Haiphong
In northern Vietnam, most of the overseas Chinese lived in counties like mengcai, Hakou, Baxia and Tianyan near the border of Guangxi Province in. There are also some Chinese in the county
Near Yunnan. When it comes to the mainland, China's population is getting smaller and smaller. However, the number of Chinese in Haiphong and Hanoi has increased again. After its establishment, the Communist Party of Vietnam regime, Vietnam and China signed a treaty, reserving that overseas Chinese only have identity to people in Hanoi, Haiphong and Nanding; the rest are classified as Han nationality, and ethnic minorities are in Vietnam. Because there are many overseas Chinese in Haiphong and Hanoi, I would like to visit there to broaden my horizons and look for new opportunities. One day, Mr. Qian visited Donghua and told me that the shipyard would send him to Haiphong minivan to pick up a batch of materials and equipment. He asked me if I would go with him. Recognizing a promising opportunity, I immediately agreed. The truck driver is a former policeman transferred to the shipyard. He was still wearing his police uniform, which was yellow. Qian said it would help us travel. Two teenage brothers accompanied us, carrying a pair of big boxes. Qian confided that the box contained goods smuggled from Dongxing by boys. He said the brothers were very active in helping their parents "do business" in coastal defense. Money sits next to the driver, and the rest of us stand behind the truck. It is a gravel road from Tianyuan to Haiphong. We approached honggai and walked along a rugged wind road to the coastline; from honggai to Haiphong, the road was even. When I stand
原文:
First Visit to Haiphong
In North Vietnam, most overseas Chinese resided near in the border of Guangxi province in
counties such as Mong Cai, Ha Coi, Dam Ha, and Tien Yen. There were also some Chinese in counties
close to Yunnan. Going inland, the Chinese population became less and less. But in the metropolitan
cities of Haiphong and Hanoi the number of Chinese increased again. After the establishment of
Vietnam’s Communist regime, Vietnam and China signed a treaty which retained Overseas Chinese
identity only for those in Hanoi, Haiphong and Nam Ding; the rest were categorized as Han, a minority
in Vietnam.
Because there were many overseas Chinese in Haiphong and Hanoi, I wished to visit there to
broaden my perspective and seek new opportunities.
One day, Qian visited Dong Hoa and told me that the shipyard was sending him to Haiphong in a
small truck to pick up a batch of materials and equipment. He asked me if I would like to come along.
Recognizing a promising opportunity, I agreed immediately.
The truck driver was an ex-policeman who had transferred to the shipyard. He was still wearing
his police yellow uniform which Qian said could be helpful on our journey. Two teenage brothers
accompanied us, carrying a pair of big boxes. Qian confided that in the boxes contained goods the boys
had smuggled from Dongxing. He said the brothers were very active in helping their parents “do
business” in Haiphong.
Qian sat up next to the driver, while the rest of us stood in the back of the truck. From Tien Yen to
Haiphong was a gravel highway. Approaching Hon Gai, we followed a windy and rugged road along
the coast; from Hon Gai to Haiphong the road was more level. As I stood in the truck, against the wind,
looking forward, my heart was full of hope. The two brothers enjoyed horseplay all the way. They had
pre-packed gravel and soil which they tossed at Vietnamese girls passing on the roadside. The girls
shouted and cursed them loudly as they watched the truck speed by. The brothers laughed
mischievously, bending to and fro.
We arrived at Hong Gai at noon for lunch. Hon Gai was the capital of Quang Ninh Province at
that time and was well-known for high quality anthracite coal. There were only a few blocks in the
town center, but in the suburbs were a lot of residential huts which housed many ethnic Chinese.
Not far west of Hon Gai was the famous Vinh Ha Long (Halong Bay). Under the blue sky we saw
more than a thousand rocky peaks of varied sizes and weird shapes jutting up from the endless sea. It
was said that some of them had large caves, like the Seven Star Cave and Reed Flute Cave of Guilin,
China. These caves had many Karst geological formations such as stalactites, stalagmites, stone pillars
and other shapes. Compared to the landscape of Guilin, the seascape of Ha Long Bay looked even more
beautiful and peaceful. If we might take a boat ride between the peaks, how amazing it would be!
There was an island along the coast of Ha Long Bay where our truck traveled along a side road.
Inland was a sanatorium where it was said Prince Norodom Sihanouk of Cambodia had lived for some
time. After several ferry trips, we arrived at Haiphong in the evening.
Qian took me to his Cousin Luc’s home. Luc lived on the second floor in the side apartment of an
old-style house. The family of three was crowded into a bedroom and small living room, a total area of
about 20 square meters. His son was a high school student who usually slept in the living room; now he
let us sleep there.
Cousin Luc was a truck driver for a printing house and his wife was a cotton mill worker. They
welcomed us warmly. At dinner they treated us to rational pork and a fish bought from the free market.
They told us if we had come the previous month, we could have had another kind of fish then plentiful
on the market. Those fish had been confiscated from Taiwanese fishing boats detained after crossing
the border. All fish were taken and a fine was levied.
What surprised Haiphong residents was that these fish were all of the same kind and almost of the
same size. It was said that the Taiwanese fishermen sprinkled a certain kind of bait on the sea to lure
one type of fish to bite. Haiphong people learned from such things, admiring the scientific
advancements of the outside world and realizing that even fishing involved science.
Our hosts recalled the horrific scenes when U.S. aircraft had bombed Haiphong a year earlier. In
order to resume production immediately after the air raid, the government required that all workers hide
in a nearby air-raid shelter. The aircraft roaring and the bombs exploding were in close proximity and
all but deafened their ears.
Cousin Luc said it was really "life hanging by a thread" at that time. His niece Hu Mei, hiding
under a small bridge, unfortunately was hit on the back by shrapnel, causing a massive hemorrhage.
She cried desperately, “This time I will die!” As feared, she succumbed on the way to the hospital.
I was frightened to hear all of this. Alas, the cruel war!
During the next two days, Qian showed me around Haiphong, North Vietnam’s second largest
metropolis and principal harbor. The urban area was rather large, perhaps 10 or 20 streets, but there
were few shops and few people on the street. An auditorium-style building called the "Great Concert
Hall" plus the small square in front was the city's most distinctive landmark. Most buildings were built
during the French regime. They appeared old and dark, some damaged and not repaired.
We visited two department stores, possibly the only two. One was just a single shop with a front
counter and a shelf behind displaying daily necessities, mostly domestic products such as clothes,
footwear, toothpaste and plastic products. The quality was rough; the toothpaste, for example, was only
contained in a zinc tube without painting and trademark.
Most commodities were sold by coupons. I was told there were foreign aid items from China, the
Soviet Union and Eastern Europe available from time to time; they typically sold out quickly but then
were resold. As for high-end goods such as bicycles, sewing machines and radios, only a few people
who got the coupons could buy them; they were not displayed in the stores.
We went to a pharmacy where some medicines were displayed on the counter and shelves. I
noticed some prettily packaged antibiotics and other drugs imported from Communist countries, and
even some from France and Japan. The descriptions on the packages were printed in various languages
but I had a general understanding of what they said. Taking advantage of this rare opportunity, I bought
as much as I could with the little money I had with me
There was a bookstore. Although it was also a single shop, the stock was more complete than in
the department stores, including some Chinese books from China. I purchased an acupuncture manual
and a “Handbook of Internal Medicine”.
At lunchtime, Qian and I stopped in at a state-run cafeteria. The printed menu showed only two
choices: noodles with meat or without meat. Using money and food coupons, we paid 100 grams of
food coupons per bowl. We were hungry, so Qian and I each bought two bowls. The noodles were
rather fresh, unlike those sold by the Tien Yen cafeteria which had an odor of cockroach excrement. I
was told there also were private rice porridge and noodle shops, but a guide was necessary to find them.
Walking on the street, I sometimes heard people speaking Cantonese. Qian said that in the past
Cantonese speakers were more prevalent and their economic power was strong; now all their assets had
become "communist property". He explained that because Vietnam was at war, the government could
provide limited jobs but did not allow private business. Therefore, many people relied on sneaky ways
to conduct small business or handicrafts for a living. The government turned a blind eye. Some of these
entrepreneurs were very skillful, such as using scrap copper and waste iron to weld and assemble a
bicycle of better quality than the "Unified" brand.
The father of the two teenage boys invited us for dinner. He lived on China Street. As the name
indicated, China Street was the home of many overseas Chinese. I was told that when North Vietnam
became Communist, the name of China Street was retained but most other street names changed. Some
were named after anti-French “heroes” or “patriots”, such as Phan Phoi Chau Street, Li Thuong Kiet
Street and Le Loi Street. Others were named for heroes who had historically resisted Chinese
aggression; the most famous was Hai Ba Trung Street. The two Trung sisters were heroines who
resisted the invasion of Ma Yuan, the famed General Fubo of the East Han Dynasty (25-220 AD).
Although they ultimately failed, the sisters still won the respect of Vietnamese people.
China was now strongly supporting Vietnam. Although the Vietnamese government was grateful,
old grudges and rivalries of the past 2,000 years were not forgotten
On the fourth day, we bid farewell to Cousin Luc’s family after breakfast, took the truck full of
cargo and returned to Tien Yen. Haiphong had not met my expectations of being a truly "metropolitan
city".
Healing Hemorrhoids in Haiphong
Qian learned that I had been very successful in healing hemorrhoids in Dam Ha, so he solicited
patients for me in Dong Hoa, promising a cure for 100 dong. My first patient was a villager there. With
Qian assisting I performed “ligation-atrophy”. The operation went smoothly, the hemorrhoid fell off
and the patient was healed after a week.
The news spread, keeping Qian and me busy healing a few more cases, the patients being relatives
of Dong Hoa villagers from a neighboring commune. Eventually, some residents of Haiphong,
informed by their relatives in Tien Yen, invited me to treat them. I went with Qian on the shipyard truck
or went with friends by bike.
At this time my friend Adong asked me to treat his cousin in Haiphong. Riding our bikes to the
Haiphong ferry, we saw three persons there who appeared to be Eastern Europeans. They wore rough
clothes, old shoes and old rectangular watches. Adong laughed and said, "I’ve no idea where the 'Gwei'
(Cantonese used to call foreigners ‘Gweilo’ or ‘Gwei’, meant ‘Ghost’) come from. They are poor
'Gwei'!"
I interjected, "East European Poles and the Czechs are not worse off than those from the Soviet
Union."
Adong agreed. He said East European countries were partly "capitalistic” with some of their
people involved in dazzling and dissipated entertainment. Then he told me a story: A student was
selected to study in Poland. Ready to go, he boarded a plane, but was pulled off and sent back home. A
year later, his father was informed that his son was in Poland engaging in "corruption" (pornography)
and would be sent back soon. The father and family were baffled because their son had never gone to
Poland! Later they learned that the son had been replaced there by an impostor.
We did the operation for Adong’s cousin the same day we arrived in Haiphong. The operation
went well.
Next day, Adong took me to visit his old classmate Ho who bought a roast duck to treat us. We
were rather overwhelmed by the unexpected favor, but Ho said, "Life has improved!" He explained that
recently the Vietnamese government had relaxed control of the economy and allowed people to engage
in small business. A family-run roast duck shop was opened nearby and prospered. There were also
several Chinese who found an old ice making machine. They repaired it and ran an ice shop, which in
turned led to the opening of two cold drink shops. "I’ll treat you to drink iced sugar water tomorrow."
Ho said.